1 Front plate with key override
2 Back plate
3 Gaskets x 2
4 Spring loaded spindle
5 Deadbolt 60mm (2 3⁄8”) and 70mm (2 3⁄4” ) backset x3
6 Strike plate
7 Wood screws x 6 (use with latch & strike plate)
8 Tweezers (for changing the code)
9 Large fixing bolts 3 supplied (spare x1)
10 Code tumblers (spare x 2)
11 Code card
12 2 keys - key override models only
You are advised to familiarise yourself with the instructions before starting work.
• Before commencing installation check that all parts are working correctly.
• Press the code according to the code card and then the knob should turn and return easily under spring pressure. If you have a key override lock try the keys to ensure that they turn in the knob handle.
• If you intend to change the code, you should do it, if it is convenient, before installing the lock – see the code change instructions in the separate leaflet.
• Check that the deadbolt moves freely by turning the flat spindle in the cam.
• From outside the code is required both to lock and unlock the bolt. If you would like to be able to lock your door from outside WITHOUT using the code then refer to Outside Knob Locking Action instruction.
• Please ensure you fold the template on the correct backset line, 60mm (2 3⁄8”) is standard, and 70mm (2 3⁄4”) latches are available. Ensure you drill the hole in centre of door edge to the correct depth to accept your chosen latch.
1. Check the hand of your door
Viewed from outside, a door is right handed if the hinges are on the right, and left handed if the hinges are on the left.
2. Outside knob locking action
To enable LOCKING of the bolt from the outside, without entering the code.
NB – Your door is Right Handed if, from outside, the hinges are on the right.
- Press the C button to reset the chamber and place the lock case on a flat surface with the buttons down.
- Remove the code chamber plate held in place with the two red screws.
- With the tweezers remove the right hand pin for right handed doors, or the left hand pin for left handed doors.
- Replace the cover plate.
- The outside knob will now feel loose and turn freely in one direction, and will require the code to be used before it will turn in the other direction.
3. Positioning the lock
- Select the required backset, 60mm (2 3⁄8”) or 70mm (2 3⁄4”) and crease along the line marked door edge and tape it to the door.
- Mark the holes to be drilled according to your template. Mark the center line of the door edge on the center line of the deadbolt.
- Now apply the template to the other side of the door, aligning it with your first mark in the middle of the door edge.
- Keeping the drill level and square to the door, drill holes from both sides to avoid splintering of the door face.
Positioning and fixing the deadbolt
- Mark a central point on the ‘center line of deadbolt’ on the door edge.
- Mark the depth of 90mm (3 9⁄16”) on the drill bit with tape to act as a visible depth limit. Drill a 25mm (1”) hole, 90mm (3 9⁄16”) deep, keeping the drill level and square to the door.
- Put the deadbolt into the hole, and with the edges parallel to the door, draw around the faceplate.
- Remove the deadbolt. Score the outline with a Stanley Knife to avoid splitting prior to chiseling a 3mm (1⁄8”) deep rebate to fit the faceplate flush to the door.
- Insert deadbolt with arrow pointing up, fix with the wood screws.
4. Fixing the lock
- The spring-loaded spindle will fit doors between 35mm (1 3⁄8”) and 60mm (2 3⁄8”) thick. For doors less than 50mm (2”) thick break off the 15mm (5⁄8”) section at the end of the spindle. For doors more than 60mm (2 3⁄8”) thick, ring the helpline for advice. The spring keeps the spindle firmly engaged in the outside handle when the lock is assembled on the door.
- Insert the spindle, with the spring on the code side, through the 54mm (2 1⁄8”) hole in the door, and make sure that it engages the deadbolt correctly for the hand of the door.
- Cut the fixing bolts to suit the door thickness, allowing at least one but not more than two threaded sections to enter the lock case.
- Using the fixing bolts, screw front and back plates together through the door as per the diagram with gaskets in place. Before final tightening make sure that the lock is vertical, and test the mechanism ensure that it is all moving easily. DO NOT CLOSE THE DOOR UNTIL YOU ARE SURE THAT THE CODE WORKS. DO NOT over-tighten the fixing bolts as this may cause distortion and lead to poor operation.
5. Fitting the keeper plate
- Position the keeper plate on the frame so that it lines up with the deadbolt.
- Mark the inner and outer edges of the keeper plate and cut a rebate so that it fits flush with the surface of the door frame.
- Drill or cut a recess 25mm (1”) deep for the deadbolt.
- Fit the keeper plate using only one wood screw at first to ensure that it is positioned accurately. The deadbolt should enter the aperture easily.
- When satisfied secure the keeper with remaining screws.
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